Open since early January, Fremont’s new Yakitori Bar boasts “Beer, Sake, Snacks” on its website — and you’ll find plenty of all three in this lively, bustling spot.

Yakitori is all about grilled skewers — and drinks, of course — and this version comes with serious culinary cred. Co-owner Atsushi Kono hails from New York City’s Torishin yakitori and sushi restaurant, which held a Michelin star from 2012 to 2018. His first California restaurant is a more laid back, yakitori-only affair. According to our server, Kono stops by once a month to make sure the ship is running tight.

Here’s what we found on our first visit:

THE VIBE: Urban, hip and youthful. Dark brick, sticker-strewn corrugated metal siding and an entire wall covered with street art make this place feel far from where you actually are, in a shopping center just off the freeway. Loud pumping music adds to the lively feel, although it makes quiet conversation difficult.

Sticker-strewn corrugated metal siding and street art give Fremont’s new Yakitori Bar an urban, youthful vibe.(Courtesy Amber Turpin) 

THE FOOD: Grab a seat at the counter for a front-row view of the open kitchen and grill, where young chefs churn out skewer after skewer under a gigantic hood that captures the thick plumes of smoke.

Most of the skewers showcase chicken parts, including the popular Hatsu ($6 for two skewers of chicken hearts) and Reba ($6, liver). Less adventurous folks might opt for the Mune ($7, chicken breast) or Teba ($8, wings), grilled with a plain salt preparation or a sweetish soy-based sauce. Other options include beef tongue, pork belly or salmon skewers. For bigger groups, the Surume Ika Yaki ($20) is an entire sliced, grilled Hokkaido squid.

Fremont’s new Yakitori Bar is all about Japanese tidbits, from grilled chicken or  vegetable skewers — okra, shishito peppers and king oyster mushrooms — to panko-crusted fried oysters. (Courtesy Amber Turpin) 

This is a meat-centric spot, but vegetarians can opt for skewers of okra skewer ($3), shishito peppers ($3) or king oyster mushrooms, or the grilled half avocado ($8). Vegetables and seafood items get special treatment to avoid cross-contamination: They’re cooked in their own grill baskets set atop the grill.

DON’T MISS: The addictive Purple Yam Fries ($8) are amazing, with a fried coating that shatters in the mouth. Don’t overlook the grilled Yaki Onigiri ($4), either. The chewy rice balls are served with a small side of kimchi and pickled onions.

Don’t miss the addictive purple yam fries at Fremont’s Yakitori Bar. (Courtesy of Amber Turpin) 

THE DRINKS: The large sake menu includes 34 possibilities, available by the 300ml carafe, full bottle or tempting flight, which allows you to sample an array. The Premium flight ($15) rotates weekly and often includes special, more expensive sakes that you might not otherwise try.

Fremont’s new Yakitori Bar offers 34 different types of sake. (Courtesy of Amber Turpin) 

GOOD TO KNOW: Just like at many sushi restaurants, you’re given a paper list and pencil to mark your choices, which your server will take to the kitchen. Use the small ceramic vase-like containers scattered about to discard your used skewers. And plan on staying a while — this isn’t the place to come if you have a short timeframe or want all your food at once. It’s a place to linger, nibble and drink.

PERFECT FOR … Double date night or a small group, so you can share and sample more tempting dishes.

DETAILS: Open from 5 p.m. to midnight Tuesday through Sunday at 46260 Warm Springs Blvd., Suite 529, in Fremont; www.theyakitoribar.com.