Open since early January, Fremont’s new Yakitori Bar boasts “Beer, Sake, Snacks” on its website — and you’ll find plenty of all three in this lively, bustling spot.
Yakitori is all about grilled skewers — and drinks, of course — and this version comes with serious culinary cred. Co-owner Atsushi Kono hails from New York City’s Torishin yakitori and sushi restaurant, which held a Michelin star from 2012 to 2018. His first California restaurant is a more laid back, yakitori-only affair. According to our server, Kono stops by once a month to make sure the ship is running tight.
Here’s what we found on our first visit:
THE VIBE: Urban, hip and youthful. Dark brick, sticker-strewn corrugated metal siding and an entire wall covered with street art make this place feel far from where you actually are, in a shopping center just off the freeway. Loud pumping music adds to the lively feel, although it makes quiet conversation difficult.
THE FOOD: Grab a seat at the counter for a front-row view of the open kitchen and grill, where young chefs churn out skewer after skewer under a gigantic hood that captures the thick plumes of smoke.
Most of the skewers showcase chicken parts, including the popular Hatsu ($6 for two skewers of chicken hearts) and Reba ($6, liver). Less adventurous folks might opt for the Mune ($7, chicken breast) or Teba ($8, wings), grilled with a plain salt preparation or a sweetish soy-based sauce. Other options include beef tongue, pork belly or salmon skewers. For bigger groups, the Surume Ika Yaki ($20) is an entire sliced, grilled Hokkaido squid.
This is a meat-centric spot, but vegetarians can opt for skewers of okra skewer ($3), shishito peppers ($3) or king oyster mushrooms, or the grilled half avocado ($8). Vegetables and seafood items get special treatment to avoid cross-contamination: They’re cooked in their own grill baskets set atop the grill.
DON’T MISS: The addictive Purple Yam Fries ($8) are amazing, with a fried coating that shatters in the mouth. Don’t overlook the grilled Yaki Onigiri ($4), either. The chewy rice balls are served with a small side of kimchi and pickled onions.
THE DRINKS: The large sake menu includes 34 possibilities, available by the 300ml carafe, full bottle or tempting flight, which allows you to sample an array. The Premium flight ($15) rotates weekly and often includes special, more expensive sakes that you might not otherwise try.
GOOD TO KNOW: Just like at many sushi restaurants, you’re given a paper list and pencil to mark your choices, which your server will take to the kitchen. Use the small ceramic vase-like containers scattered about to discard your used skewers. And plan on staying a while — this isn’t the place to come if you have a short timeframe or want all your food at once. It’s a place to linger, nibble and drink.
PERFECT FOR … Double date night or a small group, so you can share and sample more tempting dishes.
DETAILS: Open from 5 p.m. to midnight Tuesday through Sunday at 46260 Warm Springs Blvd., Suite 529, in Fremont; www.theyakitoribar.com.
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